How to Remove Graffiti Safely from Brick, Concrete, Metal and Wood
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Remove graffiti as soon as possible. Fresh paint hasn't soaked into porous surfaces yet, and quick removal discourages repeat tagging.
By surface
- Smooth painted metal or signs: start with a mild graffiti remover made for painted surfaces. Strong solvents can take off the original paint too.
- Bare metal: solvent removers; laser cleaning works well on bare metal.
- Brick, stone and concrete: gel or poultice removers that pull paint out of pores, then a low to moderate rinse. Ghost shadows are common on porous masonry. Several applications or professional methods (laser, soft-media or soda blasting) may be needed.
- Wood: often easier to sand and refinish or repaint than to dissolve paint out of the grain.
Prevention
Sacrificial (removable) or permanent anti-graffiti coatings make future cleanups much easier. Check that they suit the surface and, on historic buildings, that they let masonry breathe.
Safety and legal
- Read the safety data sheet for solvent removers. Wear gloves and eye protection and ventilate.
- Keep chemical runoff out of storm drains. Many cities have rules about this.
- On public or other people's property, report it and let the owner or city handle it. Many cities run free removal programs.
Silica warning: Dry-blasting with sand, or blasting/grinding concrete, brick and stone, can release respirable crystalline silica, which causes silicosis and lung cancer. OSHA regulates it (osha.gov/silica-crystalline). Use silica-free media where possible, wet methods, a blast cabinet or enclosure, and a properly fitted respirator.
Products for this job
- Graffiti remover gel for masonry Clings to brick and concrete to pull paint from pores. Check price on Amazon
- Anti-graffiti coating Makes future cleanup easier; check it suits the surface. Check price on Amazon